Monterey CA

Would you trade warm weather for a sunset on the beach?

It’s Cold. The desert thinned my blood.

Sitting in Tidal Coffee shop at the edge of Cannery Row at 6am and despite the fog and cold, a group of super fit 20-somethings are training together on an 8-person TRX set up.

People working out is something that happens indoors in Palm Springs, but here it’s everywhere: the beach, the park, the shoreline. It’s inspiring and a bit guilt tripping.

Admittedly, seeing so many young people is also shocking. It takes effort not to stare, checking out their style, movements and interactions. I’m used to the mature citizens of Palm Springs and seeing youth that aren’t just on holiday but working, relating and adulting is kinda trippy.

Before moving into the Monterey house-sit, I stopped in Santa Cruz to meet up with friends. We gathered around a fire deep in the redwoods and shared stories, laughs, all the feels. I miss this kind of community most of all.

  I think three years in the desert heightened my sensitivity to the nuances of nature. Months of dry, hot, colorless days broken once a year by Spring blooms and snow-melt-created oasis. Coming across a flower in the desert feels holy. Any tree that is tall enough to provide shade feels majestic. And although no where close to feeling like a forest, the sporadic Joshua Trees dotting the vast expanse of the national park feels somehow hopeful. But here, I feel saturated by the forest: the smell of the soil, the cool of the fog, the dark and quiet punctuated by the fire crackle and the hooting owl. It was better than any spa. Redwoods heal my soul. 

Hiking and even Lover’s Point!

As I hiked along the waterfront from Cannery to the beach I noticed a theme: from Lover’s Point to Kissing Rock the Heart Shaped Rock or “love rock.” Notably absent was “It’s ok to be Single Rock” and “Let’s start with a hug point.” Fun fact, when I googled the reason they named it “Lover’s Point,” turns out it was originally “Lovers of Jesus Point” as the area around it – the town of Pacific Grove – was originally a Methodist colony. Whoa!

Most of the hikes around here go along the shore and residents take pride in the ability to walk from Cannery Row to Pt. Lobos along the coast. Asilomar State Beach is a highlight and next to the resort by that name where Deepak teaches regularly.

Going inland, climbed up to Jakes Peak for panorama views from Carmel to Santa Cruz. The five mile loop was strangely quiet except for a few clumps of young children skipping along with their folks.

 

What Gay Life?

While I can “blend” as needed, it’s alarming to go from Palm Springs’ gay overtones to this somewhat “purple” zone of military, religion and family. It’s not that I don’t feel safe exactly, but my sense is to kept it on the DL. A good test is to check the dating apps. Places that are less “friendly” tend to lack profile photos. i.e. “I have to be discreet about who knows I’m gay here.” About 65% here have no photos here. When I asked my lesbian friend over lunch at Alta Bakery (amazing) she said the only gay bar in the whole of Monterey Bay closed some time ago and she longed for “community.”

Lifestyles of the Rich and Leisurely

Splurge luxury trip to Refuge, a natural thermal spa nestled in the hills near Carmel by the Sea. They have a strict “silence” policy while inside and recommend “cycling” through the hot/cold pools along as with the sauna and steam room. Sleeping in the hammock near the fire pit made the whole trip here worth it.

Stopped in Carmel as well. Thought I’d get a new all-weather vest and went into the first store I saw. Christopher was super attentive, and brought me five possible selections from their collection, the cheapest of which was $1400. Feigning indecision between several, I promised to come back later after I had “cleared my head.” Apparently, I can “blend” in more ways than one. 

Piper, Isis & Jingle Bells:

My time here is in service to three adorable cats kept in three different rooms in a funky little beach cottage bordering Seaside. On the positive side, I can walk to the State Beach in less than 5 minutes. On the curious side, each room in the six room cottage is painted an entirely different color, by entirely, I mean ceiling walls and everything. From a Feng Shui perspective, this experience has been surreal. 

Tomorrow I head down to Shell Beach near San Luis Obispo. Would love to hear your thoughts on places you’ve visited in Monterey and/or SLO!  More to come…